Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 20:48:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Zander
Subject: RoadKill Report 31July98

RoadKill Report 31July98

How y'all doin'? Here in missouri they is pretty friendly to northern city slickers likes myself. I's jus' hope they don't remember who won that war a hunnerd years back...
As Joe Beares (PCV friend) said "The south will rise again!"

I'm here, in St. Louis with my PCV-friend James and his two roomates. The ride here from Fort Collins was a hard one - a heavy headwind the whole way across Kansas and a rain shower most of the nights so I was in a wet tent most nights. yuk.
The last two days (Kansas city to St. Louis - 296 miles!) were nice - no wind at all and no rain!
So, before going into a little more detail below, thanks everyone for your continued support. I think you should all check out James' web site for an important message. His web site is:
http://www.geocities.com/tokyo/dojo/9260
After leaving St. Louis I'll only have about 2 more weeks of this journey til it ends in New Jersey. I'm both very happy to be finished and sad, this is/was one of my life's dreams and, it'll soon be just a (good) memory. Oh well; life goes on, neh?
Jezebel has been showing the strain of the journey lately - she busted another rim and her bearings are squaking more and more. I think I'll give her a well deserved overhaul when this is all finished.
So, on with my adventures!:

21July98 Tuesday Fort Collins, Colorado to Lindon, Colorado.

After a greuling week of slave labor at Mel & Rich's, I awoke in the wee hours of the morning to make my escape!
Actually, I had a blast at Mel & Rich's. Got to see their laundromat, meet their friends and, most importantly, I ate at "Toy's Thai Cafe" a number of times. It's an all-you-can-eat deal and, I definately got my moneys worth!!! We also had the largest steak I've ever seen. Out in Colorado beef is cheap. Thanks guys!
Today was really flat, hot and dry until about 1/2 hour before I got to Lindon. Then a severe dust/wind storm kicked up! Fortunately it wasn't against me except for the last 400 meters of my ride - those last 400 meters felt like a sandblaster was aimed at me! By the time I got done eating dinner the storm had died down and I was able to get some sleep.

22July98 Lindon, Colorado to Goodland, Kansas

I'd always heard about the religious nuts you find in the heartland.
Well, several of them found me while I was in eastern Colorado and western Kansas.
While packing up in the morning to leave an older guy approached me and asked if I was a christian. Warning bells went off in my head but, stupid me, I didn't tell him to get lost there and then. This nut spent about an hour trying to save me from eternal damnation. I got progressively more caustic... The only reason he stopped was that I rode away!
On my way to Goodland my rear derailleur fell apart. Stupid me didn't put it back together right in Fort Collins! Luckily I didn't lose any parts and, after a few minutes, was able to get it back together. While putting it together I met Stephanie the mail carrier. She was real nice and invited me to spend the night at her place in Goodland, Kansas - my destination for the evening. This time I did heed the warning bells when she mentioned that Wednesday night is church night. I told her I'd call her when I got to Goodland but changed my mind after thinking about the church thing. I must give her a lot of credit, she was the first person along my trip to offer me a place to sleep!
The terrain in eastern Colrado and Kansas is very, very bleak. dry and flat. Some of the flattest land I've ever seen - and that's saying something when you've lived in central Thailand!
Once in Goodland I ate (chinese, of course) then headed to the campground for a few hours of sleep.
While writing in my journal, Stephanie drove up! I apologized for not calling her, explaining how I'd arrived late and all... she wanted to give me one of those stupid "tracts" I grienjaied (it's a thai word, hard to translate) her and took it. I think she would have continued to try to convert me to her flavor of christianity except for two things: I promised her I'd read her little tract and, the mosquitos were sucking us dry.
As soon as she was gone I threw away the paper. Why can't people just leave me alone? Why do they have to try to convert me? That's why I love Buddhism - I never met a buddhist who was out trying to convert people to buddhism!

23July98 Thursday Goodland, Kansas to Webster State Park (about 20 miles east of Hill City, Kansas)

No christians tried to convert me today. It was a good day.
Today was boring, mostly flat and hot. I got a late start because of morning rain and didn't get to the park until about ten minutes before dark! Nothing of much note happened today. I did begin to finally see real trees again, though.

24July98 Friday Webster State Park to Salina, Kansas

This was my fourth consecutive 130+ mile day. Fighting the wind and doing this distance was really taking it's toll - I was beat when I got to Salina. In fact, I was beat about 1/2 way to Salina.
Number of trees increased, it's obviously getting greener as I get further east.

25July98 Saturday Salina, Kansas to Council Grove, Kansas

Weather today was same as the last few - rainy at night and heavy wind all day. It's really wearing on my moral.
I noticed a few days ago my rear tire was going bald - by today I was getting worried. I looked for a bike shop all day, to no avail. By the time I got to Council Grove, I was pretty beat but I was trying to head to a town further east for the night. About 4 miles east of Council Grove I got a flat and, by the time I fixed it I saw I didn't have the time to get to the other town and headed back to Council Grove to go to a state park there.
Just before getting into town I hit a storm grate pretty bad. Thinking nothing of it, I kept riding.
While stocking up on snacks and stuff for the evening and breakfast, I asked an older couple where would be a good place to eat in town.
Well, Dale and Preston ("Press") were really nice and they invited me to go eat with them at the "Hays House" in town. I gladly accepted their offer and away we went.
Dinner was one of the best I've had in a long, long time! YUM! If you're ever in Council Grove, I highly recommend this restaurant! After dinner Press and Dale asked me where I was staying for the evening and when I said I was going to the state park, they asked me if I'd like to stay at their place. Again, I gladly accepted. We had a merry time sharing stories and I slept like a stone.
Press and Dale have to be the two nicest people I've met along this trip who I didn't already know - they were very kind and very, very generous. I guess now I know what mid-western hospitality is all about. Thanks guys!!!!!!!

26July98 Sunday Council Grove, Colorado to Kansas City, MIssouri

After a wonderful nights sleep my moral was back in good shape.
While packing up my bike I noticed that my rear rim was in pretty bad shape from the storm grate the night before - it was all cracked out again! One spoke was worthless and two others (at least ) were cracking out of the rim.
Well, there were no bike shops until Kansas City so, I put my faith in Jezebel, thanked Press and Dale (but words can't repay their kindness!) and got on my way.
Today was the end of the bad weather. Very little wind all day and wonderful hot humid riding weather (I like it that way!)
The far eastern part of Kansas is NOT flat. It is rolling hills. Kind of like the Philadelphia area. Lots of cows, cows and, ummm..... cows.
Southwest Kansas City is really gross. It's all tract housing and strip malls.
At the border between Kansas and Missouri I clicked my heels three times and said "there's no place like home..." Soon after I blew out my rear tire on a rock and spent a half hour fixing it.
The REAL adventure began just as it got dark. I was late, I had about three miles to go when it got dark. Not having a light on my bike means this was a very bad thing but, I thought it would be an easy three miles down a single road. sucker!
The campground I was staying in was very, very poorly marked. It's a county park on a reservoir but, they don't tell you which side of the reservoir it's on. I rode to the wrong side first, got rained on in a sudden, severe but short thunderstorm.
Now, soaked and it getting on to 9:30, I found the right road and headed on my merry way until....
A cop in the road is telling everyone to turn around, noone can go through because they are working a crime scene. Seems there was a shooting... yikes!
Really demoralized at this point b/c there was no other way around for me, I asked the cop if there was anything he could do to help me. He radioed to the other cops if it would be OK to let me through and, after a pregnant pause, they said yes.
PHEW!
When I got to the crime scene they had a number of questions for me - seems most of the cops there didn't know I was coming and thought I looked suspicious... once I explained myself they let me through. Problem was, they directed me down the wrong side road. Luckily, there was NO traffic so I didn't have to worry about getting hit. After about an hour of going down lots of little park roads, I emerged back near the scene of the crime (literally). A college security guard drove up to me, asked me if I needed help and after explaining my predicament he laughed and told me to follow him in his truck. 10 minutes later I was at the campground - about 10:30pm! The managers of the campground told me they've been fighting the county to get better signage for years. Maybe a letter from an irate bicyclist will help!

27July98 Monday Kansas City, Missouri Rest day

Decided to take a rest day today to recover from my greuling week - I covered over 750 miles in 6 days! And, with my rear tired bald - I know bald men with more hair than that tire had rubber! - I decided to get a new tire and maybe a new rim if they could do it quickly.
I met Aaron at the BikeSource in Lee's Summit. Aaron hooked me up in a big, big way. He let me do the work in putting a new tire on and gave me a nice discount on the tubes and tire I bought. Thanks a million Aaron!!!!
Oh, Aaron, by the way, I got a flat later that day - the tire came off and on with no problems! :-)

28July98 Tuesday Kansas City, Missouri to Columbia Missouri

Although it didn't rain during the night, it might as well have - the morning dew was very heavy and, everything was wet. My tent is beginning to smell pretty mildewed.
Set a new record today - 155.86 miles in one day. Don't think I'll get a 200 mile day in on this trip but 160 or 170 is possible. We'll see what the wind does...
Awesome day! Perfect weather, no wind or a light tail wind all day.
Had the absolute WORST chinese food for lunch but was compensated with one of the BEST chinese dinners yet.
Just before lunch I passed an Air Force base and one of the stealth bombers flew RIGHT OVER ME at low altitude! They may be invisible to radar but they make one hell of a racket! Saw a "stealth" fighter off in the distance too! Neat!
Wonderful scenery all day - it's been only getting better as I head east.

29July98 Wednesday Columbia, Missouri to St. Louis Missouri

Woke at 5am b/c I knew it would be a long day. While drying off in the shower I dislocated my left shoulder again. I have no idea how I did it but, as you all know, it friggin' hurt!!
For those who don't know, I first dislocated it in a MTB race in Thailand about 2 years ago and, it's continued to come out ocassionally ever since.
Well I've always been able to get it back in the socket by myself (except for the 1st time) before but this morning I couldn't. At 5:30am there's not many people around to help. Not knowing what to do, I dialed 911, explained my situation and they said they'd send a medic out.
Expecting a 20 minute wait, I got a chair out of the bathroom and went to sit down. Even before I got the chair out of the bathroom, the ambulance was there! They wanted to take me to the hospital but I told them I was sure they coud do it right there and then, it wouldn't be a problem.
They were very surprised at how quickly and easily it went back into joint. This is bad for me b/c that means it'll probably come out again. sigh. it's lookin like surgery is gonna be the only option.
Good thing it happened while I was a PCV - I believe the surgery will be covered by Peace Corps.
After getting my joints straightened out, I thanked the ambulance drivers , packed up my gear and headed to St. Louis with a cracked rim and a sore shoulder.
After the morning's excitement, this was another wonderful day. I felt like I was riding a rollercoaster much of the day with the great short, steep hills. Loved it!!
Had lunch in Hermann at a cool little place - good cheap food. Can't beat it!
Finally arrived at Janes' about 7:30. We went out to gorge on southern Thai food (of course). This has been followed by Issan (northeastern thai) food and today (the 31st) we sated ourselves with central thai food.

Well guys, that's about it for now. I was able to get a new rim today so Jezebel is very happy and rarin' to go but I'll stick around here until Monday or Tuesday so I can eat some more Thai food!
Finally, don't forget to check out James' web site for a VERY important message!

Z-YA!

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