Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 10:28:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Zander
Subject: RoadKill Report 18July98

RoadKill Report 18July98

Howdy Everyone! And, welcome to the newest recipients of this piece of rubbish! Once again, (some of you must be pretty tired of this litany by now) If you don't want to keep getting this, tell me. If you know anyone who would be interested in receiving this, tell them to email me. We're up to about 75 people and growing!

This report covers my journey from Helena, Montana to Fort Collins, Colorado (7July98 to 18July98). I covered about 900 miles in this time!

I'm currently staying with Mel & Rich, (generous!) friends from college. They live right in Fort Collins and are awesome runners. Rich just sold his pooper scooper business (yes, we all knew he was full of it. His profession proved it!) ;-) and Mel plays in the dirt (she's some sort of engineer). Tomorrow they are going to the middle-of-nowhere, Nebraska (like there's anywhere else in Nebraska) to kick some butt in a running race. Monday I'll finally get my butt in gear and get moving towards James' place in St. Louis. He doesn't think I'll be there before August. I will. 'nuff said! On with the report, neh?

7July98 Helena, Montana to Bozeman, Montana

Nothing much of interest today, just a nice day. Had dinner in the "Western Cafe" in Bozeman - I VERY HIGHLY recommend this place if you ever happen to be stuck in Bozeman. Their food was great and the banana milkshakes (I had 2) were out of this world!!
I routed through Bozeman in large part b/c of the book by Robert Pirsig - Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintanience (or is it Repair?). This is the place where he began his journey. Although I don't really talk about it much in these reports, this trip is more of a journey for me, too. I've learned so much along the way from the people I've met. I think I'll be years digesting it all.
Met a really nice couple from Manitoba while in the campground - Leon and his wife. They were really nice people and we share a lot of common interests. So, Leon, maybe you can tell us just how cold it REALLY gets up in Manitoba!

8July98 Bozeman, Montana to West Yellowstone, Montana

Today was a hard but beautiful day - I had a headwind much of the day and the whole day was uphill. ugh! Obviously, I got to the edge of Yellowstone. West Yellowstone has a winter population of 900. The summer population is at least 20 times that. Tourist trap alert!
Before leaving Bozeman I stopped in the Western Cafe (again) for another of their wonderful milkshakes! YUM YUM!
The road I took actually took me through the northwestern edge of the park - fire damage was everywhere. Tons of dead trees still standing like sentinels guarding the (about) 10 year old seedlings that are everywhere.

9July98 West Yellowstone, Montana to Yellowstone Park (Grant Campground) in Wyoming

Day started nice but with a heavy dew. Since today was an easy day (only 70 miles) I took my time packing and didn't get out of West Yellowstone and into the park until about noon.
I was quite surprised at how courteous and friendly all of the park staff were (with a single, immemorable exception). Let's face it, this is a low-pay, disney land type job.
Riding through the park confirmed all that I've read/heard about Yellowstone - along the road it's a zoo (of people and traffic) but only about 100 meters from the road and you are totally alone. I followed one bike trail through the woods and was very, very alone! If I ever return to Yellowstone, I'll definitely go camping far, far away from the roads and "developed" areas.
One good thing about the people and traffic is that it's easy to see the big animals. See a traffic jam? must be a moose or bison or elk or bear or.... you get the idea.
Hot springs and lots of dead trees as well as bison that I think wanted to make me road kill (they weigh like a ton!) were highlights of the day.
Now, you must forgive me for taking so much space here but I just wanted to mention that in my entire trip I really haven't encountered any real assholes until Yellowstone. As I said, every employee of yellowstone was really great. Except one. The asshole's name is Tom Smith (from Arizona). He's the manager of the showers at Grant Campground. To make a long story short, I arrived at the showers quite hot and sweaty (you would be too if you rode 70 miles!) at 9:25pm according to my and two other people's watches. The showers don't close until 9:30pm according to all of the signs. Butthead told me that the showers were closed. I was very polite and nice (up to a point), Smith was rude, a jerk and totally lacking in sympathy or customer service skills. At one point he said "Let this be a lesson to you." as he laughed at me - all sweaty and sticky from a days ride. I guess the lesson is that old retired men who live in Arizona are real assholes.
Although it won't get me a shower, I've sent a letter of complaint to every office I could get the address of while there. I'll post it and any replies I get on the web site I plan to put up this fall of my trip.

10July98 Yellowstone Park to Cody, Wyoming

After a disgusting night which I didn't sleep all that well, I got up at 5am and got going. It was quite chilly (up at 8,000ft it's always cool!). Despite my attempts at a foul mood towards all Yellowstone employees, they were unfaillingly nice, polite and courteous. By the time I left the park I was in a good mood, despite the previous evenings events. Tom Smith was a real jerk, it's ashamed he was b/c all the others were SOOOO nice!
Didn't see much wildlife in the park today - not like yesterday! But the scenery was great!
Leaving the park and getting to Cody, I dropped about 3,000 feet. This made for a nice 30 miles of downhill at close to 30mph! Once I dropped down, the terrain turned very dry and the cliffs looked like something right out of a cyote/roadrunner cartoon. Cool, neh?
Spent the day racing a thunderstorm to Cody - it would have gotten me 'cept for a small mountain just before town which slowed it down. This gave me enough time to get ahead of it and get to town.
Once at the campground I met Doug and Diane - two great people from Wisconsin. They had me "over" for dinner (great food, by the way!!) and we chatted into the evening. They are on vacation for a few weeks and are really adventuresome! Thanks for dinner, guys!

11July98 Cody, Wyoming to Thermopolis, Wyoming

Had breakfast at a Boyscout fundraiser - all you can eat pancakes, eggs and sausage. I got my money's worth!
After breakfast began the long trek through the grasslands to Thermopolis. About 20 miles down the road Diane and Doug passed me with a lot of horn-honking, cheering and friendly waves. Thanks for the support!!
Today it easily hit 100 degrees farenheight. Finally, I feel at home!
Only thing missing is the humidity. I'll get that in Missouri, though.
Thermopolis is "famous" for it's hot springs. I was planning to swim in one but, after 90 miles of 100 degree heat, last thing I wanted was a swim in a giant natural hot tub.
Today was also noteworthy for the number of people who beeped and waved to me all day - friendliest day yet.

12July98 Thermopolis, Wyoming to Casper, Wyoming

Today and tomorrow, together, will be hard - 140 miles today and 150 miles tomorrow. (obviously, I survived!)
After the Wind River Canyon which takes you out of Thermopolis, there is nothing of interest between Thermopolis and Casper except for grass and antelope.

13July98 Casper, Wyoming to Laramie, Wyoming

Casper has seen better days but Laramie is the armpit of Wyoming.
After riding through Wyoming, I know where the term "White trash" originated. Most of the trailer homes (and there are quite a lot in Wyoming) had at least one deteriorating car in the yard - many had three or more.
Today was really hot - Shirley Basin (South of Casper) was almost a desert (or dessert...) but I had a tailwind most of the day after the Basin.
Stopped in Medicine Bow for lunch at a really funky cafe (didn't get the name but, Medicine Bow only has like 2 restaurants and three residents) - great, cheap food. Not to be missed!!
Similar terrain to yesterday, dry, hot, grass with billions of Antelope.
In Laramie I camped in a glorified truck-stop. Not too bad except for the mosquitos. They were much like the Thai ones - what they lacked in aggressiveness, they made up for in numbers. Yeow!

14July98 Laramie, Wyoming to Fort Collins, Colorado

Easy day today, only about 65 miles and a tailwind for the first 30! (shifting winds the second 35).
The terrain started out boring (like most of wyoming...grassland) but right around the border it got more rocky and mountainous. Fortunately, I was on the top of the hill and Fort Collins at the bottom. Even with sometime headwinds, I cruised into town.
Immediately headed for the nearest Thai restaurant (there's 3 in town) and had a nice lunch. The next day Rich took me to "Toy's Thai Cafe" for their all-you-can-eat $4.95 lunch buffet. When you factor in the volume with the quality, this is easily the best Thai food I've had in my trip!!! I've eaten there 3 times since arriving... too bad they don't have a weekend buffet! I'll be leaving Monday morning....
Fort Collins is a nice town - south of town is "SoPro" - the suburban sprawl with.... tract housing. YUK!
I've just been hanging out here, helping Rich and Mel with yard work, seeing town and doing delayed maintenaince on Jezebel. Yesterday Rich and I went to Rocky Mountain National Park - really great mountains. Stopped at the YMCA out there to try and find Jerapa, one of my teachers from Peace Corps in Thailand. She's working there for the summer. Jerapa must have been alerted to my coming - she wasn't there!
Oh well.... I can see her when I go back to Thailand in September.

Well, that's about it for now. Monday I head out towards St. Louis. I've been told that Kansas is worse than Wyoming on the boring factor. Good reason for high milage!

Until St. Louis Missouri, Z-YA!

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